Wednesday 20 July 2022

Birding Western Canada by Trains, Planes and Automobiles

It was quite an adventure through the “heartland” of Canada to steal a term from the Americans.  We call it The Prairies, but Heartland is more descriptive and evocative of the true nature of the vast stretches of flat, windblown farmlands that feed the country.  Oh, and the birds are spectacular too.



I took the train from Toronto, intending to travel all the way to Saskatoon, repeating a trip I took with my mother and siblings over 50 years ago.  But a looming Via Rail strike forced me to make alternative plans and reserve a rental car in Winnipeg and drive the rest of the way.  Though a strike was averted, I didn’t want to take a chance and was glad I made the change.  I was able to enjoy the drive through Manitoba, seeing a Ferruginous Hawk along the Trans Canada Highway outside of Brandon.  



The train trip itself, was wonderful.  I had my own private cabin, with its Murphy Bed that swung out of the wall and rested on the toilet seat.  Not quite the cabin I remembered from my childhood trip, though we had a double with 4 beds, and a private bathroom, so it was always going to be smaller.  Also, when I was a kid, the train loomed high over my head, while standing on the tracks, and the wheels were as tall as I was.

I loved the refined aspect of train travel too, with the fancy dining car, where I ate my meals, at my own private table, thanks to the kindness of the dining staff who honored my request for privacy.  The food was lovely and the atmosphere, with the etched glass bird art, was very thoughtful indeed. The train stopped for breaks along the way, providing us some fresh air and a chance to stretch our legs, though it was really easy to get your steps in on the train, walking from one end to the other.  I even did a little birding from my cabin, while watching the country go by outside my window.  Though I am not one to drown in nostalgia, I did fondly remember the conductors shouting, “second call for dinner in the dining car,” from my childhood trip.  That and the refrain, “Don’t flush the toilet while the train is at the station!”






I enjoyed the drive to Saskatchewan, stopping for a Stilt Sandpiper along the highway as I made my way to Glasslands National Park and a longstanding appointment with the resident Burrowing Owls.  What I wasn’t prepared for, was Prairie Dog Town.  It looked like the Prairie Dog version of “Meerkat Manor” Sue suggested a show called  “Little Prairie Dog House on the Prairie,” could have been created just for them. 

The Burrowing Owls will take over the empty nest holes created by the “dogs” who are not always willing to give them up, and often look like they are standing guard to keep out the owls.  Once again, it was my birding friends,  Ellen and Jerry from home in Brantford and Katelyn from Saskatoon, that supplied information to help me get my grassland birds.












My next target was the Baird’s Sparrow, at Chaplin Lake near Moose Jaw.  I have only seen them in Arizona, where you have to arrive at the break of dawn to see them pop up for 20 minutes out of the grass, and sit on the the fences on their wintering grounds.  They nest in southern Saskatchewan, along with Montana, Manitoba and South Dakota, where people often make their summer pilgrimage to get this bird as a Lifer.  On their nesting grounds they are rarely seen, so I had to rely on hearing them, which turned out to be easy, as they are very vocal from the grass.  


Baird’s Sparrow, 2012 in Arizona:



The last target for Saskatchewan, thanks to intel from Katelyn, was a Cordilleran Flycatcher, a bird that rarely makes it into Canada.  This one has been coming to Cypress Hills Provincial Park for the last three summers.  This was a fun bird to chase.  The park is located near Maple Creek Saskatchewan and has a very scenic drive to the West Block where the flycatcher was hanging out.  And by scenic, I mean cows!  Lots of cows giving me the “look,” as only cows can do.  





Once I made it into the swamp where the Cordilleran Flycatcher was, I could hear it calling but its constant movement and perching high in the canopy made it difficult to see and photograph.  The bigger adventure was when I returned to my car, to find it surrounded by cows.  I thought they weren’t going to let me go, but as I slowly walked toward it, they backed off, except for one cow who gave me the stink eye all the way back.  





Next stop, British Columbia and a search for the Flammulated Owl.  I have to admit, this one was the ultimate goal of my summer birding trip, kind of my dream bird, as I heard a young birder say when seeing his first Yellow-crowned Night Heron.  It would be a Lifer.  All the other birds I had seen somewhere in the US over the past 10 plus years.  Many were new for my Canadian Life List, which has grown by 67 species already this year.  But the Flammulated owl is probably on the wish list of every birder who travels out west.  Ellen had given me directions to the tree they had seen it in just a week earlier and I was excited to get there, so drove straight through to from where I had stayed in Medicine Hat, Alberta the previous night. Ten hours the road, plus stops for food, gas and copious amounts of coffee.


I arrived around in Kelowna at 6:00pm, and checked into my hotel before heading to  Rose Valley Regional Park, which is basically a scrubby path located at the end of a road and the beginning of a construction site, not unlike many places I’ve birded over the years.  It was a short, easy walk, as promised, and I quickly found the nest hole in the Birch Tree where the Flammulated Owl was located.  It was only 7:30 in the evening, and the owl had not normally shown itself until after 8:30, but the Force was with me and the owl had its head poked out, ready for pictures.  




There were two big surprises left for me that evening.  The first was that I also saw one of the baby flamers sitting next to the parent in the tree cavity.  By then it was getting dark, so the photo looks more like an ultrasound, and is as difficult to see the owl-let as it is to see a human fetus.  The second was hearing the hooting of a Western Screech-Owl.  I couldn’t locate the nest hole for Screech Owl, but I was happy with the addition of another bird to the Year List.  



On another tree was this post.  Please keep an eye out:



The next day I headed to Salmon Arm Bay in the Shuswap area of BC for a Clark’s Grebe.  That is a very rare visitor to Canada, and I spent an entire hot and humid afternoon, walking back and forth along the edge of the bay with no luck, so soaked with with perspiration at the end, it felt like I took a swim in the bay.  But it was not without birds.  There were plenty of Western Grebes and the cutest ever baby American Coots, who look like animated little Koosh Balls that came out in the late 1980’s.



I stayed the night in the area, hoping for better luck in the morning.  On the way there, I birded along Beaver Lake Road and hit the jackpot with Bullock’s Oriole, Western Bluebird and California Quail.  I then drove into Salmon Arm, to happily discover that the humidity was waning, there was a nice breeze blowing and the Clark’s Grebe was showing. 



 I watched it for about half an hour, got some photos and videos and then it was time to head up to Lillooet and another attempt at the Chukar and White-throated Swift.  That evening I did see the swifts, but both attempts at the Chukar, that night and the next morning, were unsuccessful.  But I’ll be back.  I want that bird!  

There were two more species that I wanted to get before heading back to Ontario.  I had missed Long-billed Curlew on the prairies and kept missing Pacific-slope Flycatcher in the Vancouver area.  But there was a curlew in Delta, just outside Vancouver and my buddy Rich provided me with the location.  When I arrived the tide was out and only gulls and a few ducks were on the mudflats.  I decided to go for the flycatcher and return later.  

However, before I left I was surprised and entertained by a colony of Yellow-bellied Marmots, similar to groundhogs, that had moved into the rocks along the beach.  My second surprise rodent-y species of the trip.  Once again, I discovered a cute little animal that is giving my Meerkat love a run for their money.  In order, I still think that I’d go, Meerkat, Prairie Dog, Marmot.  


I finally tore my eyes away from the marmots and at the suggestion of Rich and eBird, headed to Elgin Heritage Park where it didn’t take long to start hearing and then seeing the Pacific-slope Flycatchers.  One came down to almost eye level for a great look at this west coast specialty.  And yes, another Canadian Lifer.



As it was getting late in the afternoon and I had a red-eye flight to catch back to Toronto later that evening, I headed back to Delta and resumed my search for the Long-billed Curlew.  I also enjoyed the antics of the marmots, because, well, how could you not.  However, I tried not to be distracted by the cuteness and scoped the bay, where the tide was ever so slowly coming in.  

Around 7:00pm, with less than an hour before I had to head to the airport, I spotting something that didn’t quite look like a gull or duck in the distance.  Large, sandpiper, freakishly long bill, poking relentlessly into the mud… It was the Long-billed Curlew and, though distant in my scope, unmistakable.  It is not only North America’s largest sandpiper, but also holds the honor of having the longest bill of any sandpiper in the world.  


With that, my Wild West Coast Swing was done.  I kind of wanted to rebook my flight and extend my rental car, but hotels were at a premium.  Few rooms available and crazy prices upwards of $400.00 per night.  I took a pass and will return again soon, as I want to see Tufted Puffins and have another shot at the Chukar and maybe find a Dusky Grouse along the way.  

I returned home after an overnight flight and slept most of the day on Monday.  I’ll do some local birding and recharge my batteries, watching Ruby-throated Hummingbirds coming to my backyard feeders,  a House Wren building a nest in our hanging gourd and look forward to the next adventure, wherever the wind and the birds take me.









Sunday 10 July 2022

Keeping the Home Fires Birding


This week marked six months of birding, at least half the time on the road.  I returned from New Brunswick in anticipation of my train trip to Saskatoon.  However, this time I around, I have a whole week at home to spend with Sue and the cats, do some work around the house, cook a few meals and bird locally.  

Right off the bat I saw a report of a Yellow-crowned Night Heron at LaSalle Marina in Burlington.  I’ve been waiting for one to show up.  We saw a couple in Toronto’s Colonel Samuel Smith Park last year, including an adult and juvenile.  This one, at LaSalle, was an adult.  And Species 387 for the year.  


The next day, I drove up to Kitchener, in Waterloo County to see their celebrity Black-bellied Whistling Duck.  I saw my first of they year in Niagara Falls in January, but thought it would be nice to add another bird to my Waterloo List, since it was so close and I was looking for somewhere different to go birding that morning.  I hung around a while, but it never lifted its head for me.


Live Update, July 8, 4:00pm:

Now comes the tricky bit.  I just heard that Via Rail is potentially set to go on strike Monday morning at 12:01am, stopping all rail service across the country.  I am booked for a 9:55am departure on Sunday, July 10.  No one at Via knows whether or not the train will actually leave yet, leaving customers to contemplate alternate travel plans, and the longer they wait to inform us, the more expensive the cost of making new arrangements.  

I am happy to take a full refund and book a flight to Saskatoon via Winnipeg, Manitoba, but I also would like to at least start the train trip and see what happens.  However Via will not disclose whether or not the train will leave on time from Toronto, leaving a lot of customers in a bit of a bind.

Live Update, July 9, 3:00pm

I just received an email from Via Rail.  The train is now officially leaving Toronto on Sunday morning, but is only going as far as Winnipeg.  I can live with that.  Even a trunk-aided train ride is still an adventure, and Winnipeg is most of the way to Saskatoon, arriving Monday after dinner.  Now I have to arrange accommodations and a rental car in Winnipeg and travel to Saskatoon.  Oh, where will this adventure end?

Live Update, July 9, 8:21pm

I just received a phone call from Via Rail explaining the situation and the refund I can expect for the part of the trip from Winnipeg to Saskatoon.  Turns out it is not so much.  Oh well.  I’m still going, and still haven’t made plans for where I am staying or how I am getting to Saskatoon.  Only time will tell.

Live Update, July 10, 7:00am

Okay, I have made a decision after thoughtful contemplation and a good sleep.  I have made a rental car reservation for Winnipeg to to pick up the car at the airport when I arrive tomorrow evening, and will be able to drop it off in Saskatoon the next day, where I will pick up the previously reserved rental from Enterprise.  I still have to decide where I am staying tonight, but I have more than 24 hours to figure that out.  This is turning into quite the adventure and I have no idea at this point where it will end.

Live Update: 9:15am

I’m at the station and awaiting the boarding call.  When I arrived I was greeted by a concierge who explained the situation and that there was a slim chance the train would go all the way to Saskatoon, and not to request the refund until we get to Winnipeg.   I do think that driving from Winnipeg to Saskatoon my be the way to go and might just decide to get off the plane, ahm train, there anyway and drive through the prairies, since I do have that option and already have reserved my rental car.  





Let the adventure begin!




  



Wednesday 6 July 2022

Voyage to the Atlantic Puffins, and Murre

The last day of June came to an end on the east coast, just has it had on the first day of the year. This time I was in New Brunswick, which was the ninth province or territory I had visited in the first half of the year.  In order, not including revisits, I have have been to Nova Scotia, Ontario, British Columbia, Quebec, Alberta, Newfoundland, the Yukon, Northwest Territories, and on this trip, New Brunswick and Prince Edward Island. But my goal in New Brunswick, was to see Atlantic Sea birds, including Northern Gannet, Razorbill, Thick-billed Murre and, of course, Atlantic Puffin.

Birders Nearby

I had returned from Yellowknife just two days before, on a long and delayed flight through Edmonton and Calgary and count my lucky stars, as Samantha of Bewitched, and my mother often said, that my luggage followed me all the way to Toronto. 

Naturally, going to New Brunswick, I was on yet another delayed flight, but like a photon, I was traveling light this time around, so only had a carry-on bag and backpack, with the minimum stuff I needed for a week away, which included the Sea Watch Tours boat trip to see the puffins.  

My first stop when I arrived in Saint John, New Brunswick, was Rotary Nature Park and Water Treatment Ponds, as all the best birds are often found at sewage treatment plants.  I wanted to get in a little birding before heading to the hotel and a Nelson’s Sparrow had been reported from the park, so i gave it a try.  It was nice out and there were plenty of birds, particularly waterfowl, but the only sparrows singing were Song Sparrows.  


Beautiful, blue-beaked, breeding plumage Ruddy Duck:


By early evening I realized I needed to get my birdy sleep before I heading to the ferry docks in Blacks Harbor for my trip over to Grand Manan.  Sue had stayed there a number of years ago, and recommended the Compass Rose Bed and Breakfast for my accommodations on the island.  

I was up early for my drive to Blacks Harbor, hoping to get some birding in before getting to the ferry dock, and saw my first breeding plumage Black Guillemot of the year from the ferry, so that was fun.


Once on the island, I went in search of a Laughing Gull.  I tried some eBird Hotspots without any luck, and eventually checked into my room at the lovely Compass Rose.  I had to leave by 6:00am, for my puffin trip, so the host said they would put out some breakfast items for me to eat before I left, since the official breakfast wasn’t served until 8am.  They also serve dinner there, so I made a reservation for 6:30 and went birding at nearby Castallia Marsh.  

On a couple of occasions this year, in Ontario, I was unable to chase down a Laughing Gull during migration along the Great Lakes, and I could hear them laughing behind my back.  Lucky for me, a few spend the summer in the Maritime Provinces.  Just as I was heading back to my car to go for dinner, I heard a bird overhead “laughing.”  I looked up and saw the Laughing Gull circling, and taunting me.  But I did get the last laugh, a half decent photo, and species 381 for the year.  It was also another Canadian Lifer.

Laughing Gull:

The next morning I was up at 5am, grabbed some breakfast and coffee, and headed out a little early for the boat docks for the puffin trip, knowing I would manage to get lost along the way, which I did.  However, I arrived on time, even before a family who also got lost; they went to the ship captains house, that was printed on the brochure. Ooops.  

I was prepared for this trip, with a scopolamine patch behind my ear and anti-nausea meds coursing through my blood stream.  Once underway, the first bird that the guides called out were a pair of Willson’s Storm Petrels. I got a good look at them, but no photo, as they raced past the boat.  Not only was it a great bird for the year list, but yet another Canadian Lifer.

About 90 minutes later we’re approaching the puffin island and our guide asked us all, with a mischievous smile, “Seen any puffins yet?”  Seen any?  We all laughed.  There were hundreds, if not thousands of them. In fact, though I only saw a fraction of them, over 6000 breeding pairs are on the island.  There were also Razorbills and Common Murres. Though most of the birders on the trip went on the island, I had booked too late to get on the list, and instead, with one other birder and the guide, we circumnavigated the island on a small skiff.  I think we had a better time.  The guide even called in the puffins close to the boat with an amazing “puffin call.”




Common Murres:

The Clown-faced Cuties: Atlantic Puffin:




Razorbill:

Fledgling Razorbill:



One of the coolest things we saw from the skiff was a baby Razorbill trying to climb out of the nest, either looking for a parent to feed it, or just get to the water.  Razorbills build their nests close to the water, because the fledglings can’t fly when they first leave the nest.


The trip netted me three more species for the year: Wilson’s Storm Petrel, Razorbill and Atlantic Puffin, and by the time we were back on shore I was up to 384 birds.  But I wasn’t done yet.  I knew about some American Oystercatchers from eBird and I asked advice on seeing them.  However they were off shore, on Bill’s Island, not visible from land, and I needed to find someone with a boat to take me out.  

So, I headed to the ferry docks, where a ferry to White’s Head Island passed close to Bill’s Island and was going to do that. Meanwhile, I was messaging with Mitch Doucet, who I found on Facebook, and he suggested contacting Mark Morse, who had taken him out in his boat that very morning.  While waiting for the ferry, I saw a small motor boat come into the Harbour with a couple of people wearing binoculars.  I rushed down to the boat and who did I meet, but the aforementioned Mark Morse and his wife, Karen. They were nice enough to motor me out to the island to see my third Canada Lifer of the trip.  We got close enough to the island to get photos and they would have taken me out further for other sea birds, but the waters were getting too rough by then.  I thanked them and offered a small compensation for gas and their time and headed back for dinner.

American Oystercatchers, species 386 for the year and 444 for my Canadian Life List:



Sometimes, the best part of birding, 

is meeting the nearby birders along the way:





I spent the next day on Prince Edward Island and though it is beautiful and scenery is gorgeous, I was disappointed that the only access to the island by car is a single bridge, for which, the government of PEI extracts a $50.25 exit fee at a toll booth when you leave the province.  Not exactly the best way to encourage tourists to return.  I certainly will think twice before crossing that bridge again.  The sad part is that even residents who need to leave the island to shop, see family or for their business or medical reasons, have to pay the fee for the privilege of crossing the fancy bridge.

On my last day in the Saint John area I searched for Northern Gannets.  That should have been the easiest bird to see, but they kept eluding me.  I finally spotted one in the Bay of Fundy, flying toward Blacks Harbour, while I was birding at Saint’s Rests Marsh.  By then, it was a time to get to the airport, where, not surprisingly, both my flights were delayed and instead of getting home by 11pm I wasn’t in bed until almost 2am.  Just part and parcel of a Big Year in Post-Covid Travel in Canada.

Northern Gannet:


So, by the numbers, I have visited eight provinces and two territories in the first six months of the year and been away from home nearly 100 of the first 181 days of the year.  I’ve seen 387 species, of which 54 were Canadian Lifers, and 9 were new for the ABA List, making me a newly minted member of the ABA 700 Club.

Next stop, Union Station in Toronto, and a nostalgic train ride to Saskatoon, Saskatchewan…